Opening a Sewing School

First, one of my nieces and her friend wanted to learn to sew.  Then the daughter of a good friend wanted to learn to sew.  A young woman I met last month got so animated upon learning that I was teaching someone to sew.  This week a friend of mine told me I needed to teach her to sew because her pre-school aged daughter wants Mommy to make her a skirt and knit her a sweater.  This weekend we are snowbound and my teen-age daughter thought it was a good weekend for sewing lessons.  She’s had her own sewing machine for over six years and barely used it.  Now she wants to become an accomplished sewist in six months, before she leaves for her freshman year in college and takes her machine with her.

I would love to have a place to conduct group sewing classes, but these young women are all over the place.  My niece lives in New York. So here’s my experiment for this year, a free online sewing “school” for all those young aspiring women (and males).

I started to sew when my aunt brought me a pattern and fabric and I made a tunic with matching pants.  Okay, that was the 70’s. I really learned to sew when I attended the H.S. of Fashion Industries, which is a whole different level. What’s the difference?  You are wearing a new garment you made, a person looks at you and immediately says, “Oh, you made your outfit.  How nice.”  That’s one level.  You are wearing a new garment you made, a person looks at you and immediately says, “Where did you buy that?  I love your outfit.”  That’s a whole different level, which requires practice.

At Fashion High we made samples of different techniques.  We were graded on these samples and then we mounted them on pages in a large binder, which we could refer to in the future.  I had my binder for years after graduating from that school because it was a great reference book.  This is the method I am using to teach my student.  She is capable of buying a pattern and fabric and creating something to cover her body, but I want her to be able throw away the pattern’s guide sheets, which often don’t provide guidance, and create a well made garment.  I want her to look at a fabric, feel it, and know which techniques to use.  I want her to visualize a garment in her mind and then create it.

My daughter knows she needs to learn the basics and that samples are the best way.  We made a bunch of practice samples using a variety of techniques: straight seam finished with a zigzag overcasting, a french seam, stitching circles, concave and convex curve seams with understitching, a wide and a small double fold machine hem, a narrow machine hem, a hem done by hand, a hem done by machine using the blindstitch, and gathering into a waistband that’s finished by hand. This was all in one afternoon. 

Watching my daughter create her samples was all the inspiration I needed.  I was thinking about how to best use my blog, and now I have one way: teaching sewing from the very beginning.  Students can “attend” my virtual school by following the “lessons”.  They can reach me by leaving questions and comments in the comment section of each lesson.  I will learn from them and they will learn from me.  At least that’s my hope.

Here are the directions for the first sample (without pictures).  I need to take pictures to add to the directions and then the first lesson is complete.  When I post the lesson, school is officially open.

Joyous Sewing

I haven’t posted in a while.  Kira says today is a good day to start back. Today is the anniversary of my birth.  It dawns on me that I have been sewing for forty years.  That is so cool!  Why am I still sewing?  Because it brings me joy.  Some years ago I lost that joy after working with a client that could not make decisions and allowed her other family members to strongly influence the design of her wedding dress.  It took a few years for me to get my joy back and now I only make things that bring me joy.  Now I say no to indecisive clients. 

So what will bring me joy this year?  I will make a wedding dress for a client who knew what she liked.  JOY.  I will make prom dresses for my daughter and her best friend.  JOY.  I will make a dress for my daughter for her graduation.  JOY.  Also on the list is another lined hoodie for my eldest son.  JOY.  And finishing the Chanel inspired jackets for the generations. JOY.  Finally, garments for a fashion show that will take place at a family reunion.  JOY.

I will only allow joy in my life.

Options for a snowy day – Chapter 3

Oh, you came like a winter snow

Quiet and soft and slow

Falling from the sky in the night

To the earth below.

                                                       Songwriter, Audrey Assad

 

I don’t know why the snow has made me happy.  Maybe it’s the beauty of everything covered with snow.  The sky is clear and so blue.  My husband and our sons are out shoveling the driveway, clearing the cars and laughing.  Hot chocolate is simmering on the stove.  I hear my daughter shrieking because my oldest son finally managed to pelt her with a snowball when she came to the door.  I know in another town a little three-year old boy who I won’t see today is having a ball laughing and playing in the snow.  Ahh, the sounds of a snowy day. 

Sewing

I finished the machine embroidery on the hoodie.  Now it’s time to put it all together.

hoodie front

hoodie back

 Christmas baking

I’m undecided at the moment.  Do I make the fruitcakes or mix up a couple of more types of cookies? 

Ahh, a winter snow!

Options for a snowy day – Chapter 2

Let it snow, let it snow

Outside it’s cold

But the fire’s blazin”

So, baby, let it snow

Let it snow

Let it snow

Let it snow.

                                                               song by Boyz II Men

 

My annual Sunday Before Christmas Dinner is off.  I guess this year it will be a Sunday Before New Year’s Dinner.  So the options I have chosen so far today: 

Sewing

I cut out the hoodie for my son. I need to cut the lining.  I decided to take a short break, during which my husband and youngest son started chanting loudly, “We want cookies! We want cookies!”  My loving husband then threatened to disconnect my internet connect if I wasn’t in the kitchen in 5 minutes. 

Christmas baking

I mixed a batch of Snickerdoodles and a batch of the Triple Chocolate cookies.  While mixing the cookies I looked out the window every so often to watch the comedy that was unfolding outside.  There is a foot of snow outside, it’s still coming down hard and heavy, and several of my neighbors are trying to drive who knows where.  Mind you, I live on a hill that curves and my house is at the bend of the curve, so I can see down to the corner intersection and up the street to the next bend.  People were out pushing cars trying to get through the intersection.  One of the cars of the neighbor on the right is now blocking the driveway of my neighbor on the left.  The neighbor on the right then moved his large sedan down his driveway into the street so he could drive the vehicle that was parked behind it.  I had to laugh out loud when it took him 15 minutes to back the large sedan back UP his driveway.  Our driveways slope down to the street; we are on a hill on a hill.

This is why the supermarkets and other stores were overcrowded yesterday.  My husband spent 1 ½ hours on the checkout line. People knew we would be snowed in.  The secondary street probably won’t be plowed until Monday.  It’s a battle to keep the main roads plowed!  Whatever we don’t have in the pantry at the moment, we don’t need.

So, baby, let it snow!

 

Options for a snowy day

Oh the weather outside is frightful,

But the fire is so delightful,

And since we’ve no place to go,

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

 

Sewing Projects:

I am in the glamour mode so I could work on a cocktail dress for my Etsy shop.  Black lace, chiffon, satin, ribbon, and braiding.

I am making this jacket for my daughter using the time-consuming traditional method for the lining, handsewing.

I am making this jacket for myself using a quick method for the lining, mostly machine sewing with a little handsewing.

My oldest son wants a few hoodies.  This one is black and turquoise sweatshirt knit with a LOUD printed cotton lining.  The purple and turquoise embroidery thread is for machine embroidering a logo he designed.

My grandbaby has taken Snowbell everywhere.  Snowbell kept her company while she was in the hospital recently.  My grandbaby is healthy again, but Snowbell is not.  Her arms are literally hanging by threads.  I also need to make Snowbell a new outfit before she goes back home.

Christmas Baking to do:

  • Jamaican Fruitcake
  • Chocolate Chip Cookies
  • Oatmeal Cranberry Cookies
  • Clear the Cupboard Cookies
  • Triple Chocolate Cookies
  • Snickerdoodles
  • Butter Cookies
  • Molasses Cookies
  • Chai Shortbread
  • Spritz Cookies
  • Coconut Macaroons
  • Pecan Squares

I don’t know what I will work on, but I have no place to go.  Let it snow!

The Making of Nicole’s Dress – Final Chapter??

 

The gown is done.  It’s the first time I lined black chiffon with anything other than black fabric and I love the effect.  I need to work on improving my photography skills because I could not capture the shimmer of the gray charmeuse under the black chiffon. To me it looks iridescent.  The pictures also couldn’t capture the sparkle of the rhinestones and beads. 

The chiffon and charmeuse are polyester and purchased from Sarah’s Fabrics.  The trim, beads and the rhinestones were purchased from M&J Trimmings.   Yes, it took hours to sew on the trim and those tiny beads, but I enjoyed it.  Busy hands relax the mind.

So where is she wearing this gown?  She’s going to a dinner dance given by her husband’s fraternity to raise scholarship funds.  They give scholarships to youths in Westchester County, New York.  I asked her to send me pictures of her in the dress when she’s decked out.  Hope she remembers.

I’ve been bitten by the bug.  I want to make something else that’s glamorous!

 

 

The Making of Nicole’s Dress – Chapter 1

I am working on something glamorous!  I love glamour.  Here are the elements:  silver gray charmeuse, black chiffon, rhinestone and beaded trim, rhinestone buttons and sew-on rhinestones.

Another Way to be Creative

We all have a multitude of ways that we express our creativity.  One of my ways is through baking and decorating cakes.  I baked three cakes for Thanksgiving dinner, and I thought it would be fun to let you see them.

Black Forest Cake: devil food’s cake, cherry filling, chocolate buttercream frosting, and chocolate sprinkles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pineapple Coconut Cake: vanilla cake, pineapple-ginger filling, buttercream frosting, and shredded coconut.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red Velvet Cake: red velvet cake, buttercream frosting with a hint of cocoa, chocolate swirls and white chocolate shavings on top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The only reason I didn’t have to make a cookies-and-cream cake is because my younger sister was not in town.  Since I will see her for Christmas, I will have to make one.  Not sure how I will decorate it yet.

I’ve been decorating cakes for years.  It’s great when I can combine two of my passions, such as the time I made my girlfriend’s wedding dress and then decorated her wedding cake to match the lace I used on her dress.  She loved it.  It’s great when your expressions of creativity make others smile.

Leaning into the Curve

Kira is bonding with her sewing machine.  How can I tell?  She brought me a new circle sample to examine.  If you will remember, I had her sewing concentric circles in order to learn to sew curves smoothly.   When she brought me her second sample, she wanted me to look only at the third ring on that sample.  It was the only one that looked like a smooth circle.  Yesterday, she brought her third attempt.  There were only four rings on the sample, but they all looked like circles!  This means she has better control of her machine speed and her hands are not fighting the fabric as she goes around the curve.  I guess it’s like riding a bike and leaning into the curves.  When you are comfortable, you do it naturally.

Kira's 2nd sample

 

 

Kira's 3rd sample

Another Sunday – Another sewing lesson

Another Sunday, another sewing lesson for Kira.  Today’s lesson covered a few things.  First part of today’s session was spent pinning and sewing the shoulder seams of the lining on her Chanel style jacket using the fell stitch. 

Wednesday was the first time I had Veterans’ Day off, and I spent it printing a pattern and stitching a muslin for my Chanel style jacket.  I drew horizontal lines on my muslin pieces before stitching the jacket to see how the horizontal lines would match.  The shape of the front side piece caused the stripes to tilt in the shoulder area, creating a funky look at the princess seam in that area.  I experimental with the pattern piece and did not improve the look.  As well, I needed more ease everywhere and the shoulder seams tilted too much toward the back.  So I tossed the whole thing, tweaked the measurements in my patternmaking software, reprinted the pattern and cut a new muslin, which I stitched today while Kira worked on her jacket.  I tried on the muslin of the jacket and this became the second part of her lesson.  She watched while I let out the seams in the back across the hip area and lowered the front neckline.   We evaluated the horizontal lines.   The horizontal lines are better and the fit is good.  I explained that I would move the shoulder/princess seam intersection 1” closer to the neck, which will improve the look of the horizontal lines. 

Now to the next part of today’s lesson. Kira asked if I kept my paper patterns after making the garments.  I explained that I did keep some.  I lectured on tried-and-true patterns and slopers, and why I would transfer the bond paper pattern of my jacket to oaktag or poster board.  I sketched a princess seam jacket, the Chanel styled jacket, and gave it a military look by sketching upper flaps and lower patch pockets with buttons, epaulets and belt loops with a tie belt.  Cut it from wool gabardine for the winter and linen for the summer.  Extend the front overlap and add two lines of buttons, and you have a double breasted jacket.  Add a horizontal seam line and you have a yoke.  Overlap the front and back at the shoulder, trace the neck area and center lines, draw a shape from the front to the back and you have created a collar.  She had that sparkle in her eyes, which told me she got the point.  I demonstrated dart manipulation of the side dart on a bodice front, turning it into an armhole princess seam.  I next demonstrated how to turn a long sleeve sloper into a short puff sleeve, using the slash and spread method.  Her smile told me her mind was working, envisioning the possibilities when I sketched the princess seam dress with a puffed sleeve.  She also learned how to draft a flounce and how to add flare to a straight skirt.  Now she knows why I don’t have an abundance of patterns; I change what I have by drafting the pieces I need.

We closed out the lesson making lap zipper samples.  She understands how to improve her lap zipper installation and we will do it again next week.  While she worked on her lap zipper sample, I finished baking a banana pudding for her to take home.

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