Mpressive Threadz Studio Blog

Sharing my love of sewing


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Sewing Project # 1: The Six-Gore Skirt – Drafting and Fitting the Pattern

Hello my ambitious newbie sewists.  Are you ready to make your go-to six-gore skirt pattern that fits well and can be used over and over?

Remember, I wanted to keep the cost to a minimum so I am using some very basic tools and improvising.  However, the right tools make the job easier and faster.  If you have an L-square ruler and a curved ruler, it’s easier to square and true lines.  A wide 18” long see-thru ruler makes marking seam allowances a breeze. With a rotary cutter and cutting mat, you can cut out the pieces in seconds.

Learning to fit a garment takes practice.  This project will give you just a taste of it.  Reading about fitting and doing it a lot over time will make you better at perfecting the fit of your garments.

Click here for the lesson to draft and create the skirt sample for fitting.  If you have any questions, use the comment section.  I will answer as soon as possible.

Next week I will post instructions for constructing the skirt in “real” fabric.  Imagine the skirt in a beautiful linen or printed cotton. Remember prints are the hot look this spring and summer.  Avoid stripes and plaids for this first skirt because it’s hard to match the lines.  You can use the week to buy the fashion fabric and notions to make your six-gore skirt.

You will need:

  • Fashion fabric: yardage = 2 times the skirt length, without nap fabric
  • Interfacing: yardage = length of waistband pattern piece, lightweight and fusible
  • 9” regular skirt zipper to match your fabric
  • Thread to match your fabric

Until next week, HAPPY DRAFTING!

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Skirt Blitz – Appendix B

I made it to the store and purchased the brown binding for the seersucker skirt.  I agonized over whether to make it narrow binding or wide binding, finally deciding to go bold and chose the wide binding.  Here’s the last of the skirts from the skirt blitz.  You can probably guess that this is one of my quiet traditional days.

cotton seersucker

cotton seersucker


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Skirt Blitz – Appendix A

I wore three of the skirts this week.  I still need to get to the store for the brown binding for the seersucker skirt.  Here are the pictures of the skirts.  Yes, I know.  I confess.  I love sweaters.  


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Skirt Blitz – Final Chapter

I finished the loud skirt.  My daughter just returned from a half-week leadership summit and claimed she has been blinded by the brightness of my skirt.  My husband doesn’t like the print either.  Too bad, I do.  I lined the yoke of the skirt with a remnant of turquoise lining fabric, so the skirt is bright on the inside as well.  I am ending my skirt blitz because I don’t have the right weight of denim for a flare skirt.  Besides I am now thinking about a top blitz.  Oh, I decided to hem the striped skirt with brown binding, so I will stop at the store this week.

I will take pictures of the four finished skirts.


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Skirt Blitz – Chapter 3

I am now working on skirt # 4, a bold, funky print.  My daughter thinks it too loud.  What can I say? Sometimes I am quiet and traditional, and sometimes I am loud and modern.  The fabric is cotton with a little Lyrca that I brought from Fabric Mart this year.  On one of the other blogs, the sewist used this same print to make a skirt.  She lamented about  huge flowers next to each other on the center of her butt.   She originally thought to make a pencil skirt, but changed her mind and was not happy with the result.  I heeded the lesson she learned and stuck to a pencil skirt.  Since I had plenty of fabric and time, I matched the print at the center back seam. 

Here’s a quick lesson on matching prints. 

  1. Cut one side of the back, both pattern piece and fabric right side up.  Then baste on the center back seam of the cut piece.
  2. Lay the cut back piece, right side up, on the right side of your fabric until you have matched the print.  The piece will look as if it has disappeared.
  3. Take your paper pattern piece, wrong side up, and match the center back seam of the pattern piece to the basted center back seam of the cut piece.
  4. Once in position, pin the pattern piece to the fabric and remove the cut piece.  Cut out the other side of the back.
  5. Put the two pieces together, right side together and pin baste on the center back seam. 
  6. Look at the seam from the right side and adjust as needed to match the print. 
  7. Stitch the seam. 

You have to allow extra yardage for matching prints, but for large prints, it’s worth it.


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Skirt Blitz – Chapter 2

The attack continues!  I completed the polka dotted skirt.  Now I’m working on a stripe one. The fabric is a cotton seersucker stripe purchased last year from Joann Fabrics. I also brought a pack of pre-made piping in dark brown.  I decided to be a little created on this one, so I am making a pleated skirt.  However, I am not always one for being simple and quick.  Here is the skirt in progress.  The yoke and the skirt body are from the same piece of fabric. 
cotton striped seersucker

cotton striped seersucker

 

pleats closed

pleats closed

 

pleats opened

pleats opened

 

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I only have to hem the pleated skirt and decided to stop at that point.  It’s lined with a very soft unbleached muslin.  I piped the waistline and yoke seams and that got me to thinking.  Should I bind the hem with narrow dark brown binding?  That would bring the eyes from the horizontal brown lines at the yoke to a horizontal line at the hem.  Of course, I don’t have the narrow binding, so that means a trip to the store.

almost done

almost done

 


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Skirt Blitz

I am in the midst of an intensive campaign to increase my skirt wardrobe.  Last night I started attacking my fabric stash.  So far one skirt is complete and another needs hemming and the waist binding.  I drafted a pattern to make a gored skirt.  My daughter watched me cut one piece and commented that it looked too small to fit me.  She exclaimed when I announced that I had to cut 7 more pieces, “A skirt is only suppose to have 2 pieces.”  I guess when she starts to sew again, her choice will be very simple patterns.

The finished skirt is a subdued polyester crepe de chine. The skirt in progress is lively dotted pattern in silk crepe de chine.  I brought both pieces a few years ago from Sarah’s Fabrics in Takoma Park, Md.  I intended to make tops, but now they are skirts.