Mpressive Threadz Studio Blog

Sharing my love of sewing


Please, No Old Looking Jeans

Him:  Where do you buy your jeans?

Me:  Why?

Him:  You need to buy some new ones.  All your jeans are starting to look old.

My husband can be brutally honest, even when no one has asked him for his opinion.  So today I made a pair of denim trousers.  I wanted a pair that would look good dressed up or down.

I brought the fabric about a month ago for the trousers.  The fabric is Sew Classic bottomweight- 4 oz dark wash denim fabric from my local Joann Fabric store.  The fabric for the pockets and waistband facings came from my stash.

I used Simplicity 2860 which is part of the Amazing Fit line of patterns.  I cut the front a size 14 and the back a size 16.  Since I wanted a close fit, I use the slim cut.  I redrew the center front line to be on the lengthwise grain and drafted on the fly extension.  I don’t like seams in the fly area; my abdomen is not flat and I don’t need any extra bulk in that area. I drafted the front pocket and fly facing as one piece.  I tapered the pattern in at knee area by ½” on the side and inseam seams for a slightly flared look.

I used navy blue thread for the topstitching since I wanted the look of dressy trousers and not jeans.  The inseam and crotch seams are welt seams with two rows of topstitching.  The side seams plain seams stitched twice for strength.  The hem, pocket edge and waistband have two rows of topstitching.

Daughter:  You didn’t put pockets on the back?

Me:  No.  I don’t care for pockets on my butt.  I don’t put anything in my back pockets.

Daughter turns around to show me that her phone is in her back pocket.  She’s funny.  She’s barely a size 2 and I am 45 pounds heavier than her.  Seriously, I am not putting my phone in a back pocket!

I did not make a muslin to test the fit before cutting the pants.  I like the fit, but I think I will tweak it a little on the next pair.  Husband likes the new pants, so I guess I am good for a while.


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The Return to Sewing

I hope everyone is having a delightful Labor Day weekend.  I am.  I am sewing! 

My husband commented that no one is having a barbeque this weekend.  That doesn’t bother me because it won’t cut into my me time.  I know someone is thinking why my husband doesn’t have a barbeque.   That’s one of the things that has happened since I last blogged.  We had our annual end of June backyard barbeque.  This year we had 100 people; we started around 2 p.m. and the last group left around 1:30 a.m.  My husband and I do all the cooking and baking; it’s what we enjoy doing.  This year’s menu: chicken, ribs, chopped BBQ, hamburgers, franks, fried fish, shrimp, bean salad, fruit salad, cole slaw, mixed green salad, pasta salad, potato salad, red rice, macaroni and cheese, corn, potato chips , tortilla chips and salsa, devilled eggs, cookies , graduation cake, birthday cake, cupcakes, ice pops, ice cream, watermelon, soda, water, lemonade, sweet tea, beer, cocktails, and coffee.

So what have I sewed so far today?  I just finished sewing a pair of black linen pants.  The only thing left to do is work the buttonholes on the waistband and sew on buttons.  I made the fitting shell earlier last week.  Last night I altered the pattern and cut out the pants.  I used Vogue 7881.  I thought the legs were too full in the thighs for the look I wanted so I narrowed the leg around the knee area, making the leg straight from the knee area to the hem and not from the hips to the hem. I did a sway back adjustment by folding out 1” on the center front and tapering to 1/2” at the side in the front crotch area, then folding out 1/2” on the side and tapering to nothing at the center back in the back crotch area.  I like the look and fit of the pants, but I don’t love it yet.  On the next pair I will add 1/2” to the back crotch extension continuing all the way down to the hem.  After I made the linen pants, I looked at the sway back adjustment in the book “Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach” and noticed that back crotch extension is also altered along with the center back.  I also compared my linen pants with a pair of ready-to-wear pants I like a lot and I noticed that the back leg of the RTW pants were 2” wider than the front, whereas the back leg of my linen pants was only 1” wider than the front.

Hopefully, I can convince my husband to take a picture of me in the pants so I can post the picture in the next blog post.  In the meantime, I think it time to start making a matching top.