I don’t know why I thought I could cut out a pattern for myself without doing a full bust adjustment. I guess I was delusional at the time. I decided to make a matching top for the black linen pants using Simplicity 7086, View B, an out-of-print pattern. I had pinned this pattern to the fabric years ago, roughly cut around the pieces and put them away. Since the pieces were already pinned to the fabric, I just cut. Needless to say, my body has changed a little, and once I stitched the shoulders and side seam and tried on the top, my muddled brain cleared instantly. The white tracing threads on the center front s did not meet at the bust comfortably.
I make the full bust adjustment on the pattern front and instead of a side dart I make a French dart. I have a piece of the linen that wide enough but not long enough for the new front. My top now has a yoke. I stitch the darts, shoulders and side seams and try the top on again. The white tracing threads on the center fronts meet comfortably, but there’s some poof above the dart to the armhole. Why? The point of the French dart is not in the right place. It’s pointing below my apex. I call it a night.
Morning time and now it’s time to make it work. I try on the top, wrong side out, matching the centers. Using a white dressmaker pencil, I put a dot at my apex. Take the top off, open the side seam to just above the dart, remove the stitching in the dart and press the front piece flat. I redraw the French dart pointing toward the apex, stopping the dart point 1” from the apex. I stitch the darts and try the top on again. BETTER! There’s a little bit of a poof along the dart so I fold it out, using my fingers to crease the fabric. I take off the top and examine the crease. The dart wants to be 1/2″ wider and to curve slightly. I stitch on the crease making the dart wider, try on the top and it’s EVEN BETTER. I see that the back side seam line laps in away from the front side seam line about 1” at the hem. I stitch the rest of the side seam keeping the back seam allowance at 3/4″ and bringing the front seam allowance to 1 3/4” at the hem. I do the other side.
The collar in on, the front facings are attached and I need a break. Time for some coffee!