Mpressive Threadz Studio Blog

Sharing my love of sewing

Making of Doris’ Dress – Chapter 3


I cut the chiffon skirt for my dress.  I changed the grainline of the skirt pieces so that true bias falls down the middle of the pattern pieces and the chevron pattern that forms at the side and center seams will be balanced, meaning the same angle degree on all the seams.
To my student Kira:  If you are reading this, remember my lecture because it applies to how I cut this skirt.  I opened the fabric and saw that the pattern did not line up.  Look down the lengthwise grain and you will see that the dots are staggered.  Look down the crosswise grain and you see that the dots line up.   
looking down the lengthwise grain

looking down the lengthwise grain

looking down the crosswise grain

looking down the crosswise grain






So I am dealing with a horizontal “stripe” fabric.  I want the “horizontal” stripes to match at the center seams, so I am cutting this in a single layer, first one side, then the other.

single layersingle layer 2





When I cut the other side, I laid the cut piece on the fabric so right sides are together, discovering that the design in the fabric mirrors itself along the lengthwise grain.  This allowed me to match the dots of the cut piece with the dots in the fabric.  Also, because satins can sometimes have a nap and the chiffon has satin dots, I use a with nap layout for cutting the skirt.

position cut piecealigned pattern


Author: Mpressive Threadz

I started sewing when I was 11 years old, and had my own clients when I was 12. I graduated from the H.S. of Fashion Industries, majoring in fashion design. I expanded my technical background by attending evening classes at the Fashion Institute of Technology and working many years at a major pattern company. I have been creating custom wedding gowns and evening dresses for more years than I care to count. I LOVE WORKING WITH FABRICS. I love fine sewing techniques. I love creating beautiful dresses.

2 thoughts on “Making of Doris’ Dress – Chapter 3

  1. Aha! I wondered how you were going to get the dots to match up. I am in awe of your ability.

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